WHEN IT COMES TO making headlines, men’s fashion rarely generates as much noise as its feminine counterpart. But the spring 2014 menswear shows produced no lack of excitement. Former Yves Saint Laurent creative director Stefano Pilati made his debut at Ermenegildo Zegna with a notably looser take on the Italian house’s traditional tailoring. Miuccia Prada shook things up with darkly romantic tropical prints, confirming florals as one of the season’s biggest trends. But there were other stories to tell in the exaggerated checks at Marc Jacobs and Bottega Veneta and the smoking-jacket-inspired looks at John Galliano and Haider Ackermann that all but called for a pipe, slippers and monocle. And, as ever, some simply fantastic clothes came down the runways. Our money this season is on Hermès and Berluti—the shoemaker whose expansion into clothing is only in its fourth season. Both labels showed that there’s a beautiful balance to be found between fashion-forward statements and classic tailoring.

 

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Perhaps it’s the residual influence of Baz Luhrmann’s “Gatsby,” but white suits look fresh, not retro.

 

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The world of sports—a perennial reference—is still willing in the fashion game.

 

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The streetwise zipper jacket gets a sleek upgrade.

 

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Richly hued silks and jacquards with classic motifs offer gentlemanly ease…fireplace optional.

 

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Spring 2014’s riffs on navy, cobalt and more are anything but sad.

 

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Designers chuck the traditional windowpane out the window for a modern take on checks.

 

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Banish all thoughts of chintz. Spring 2014’s floral prints have a surprisingly manly bite.

 

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